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Electric heating and cooling

Electric baseboard heating

Simple, quiet zone heating for basements, additions, cabins and older homes.

ResidentialCommercial

Electric baseboard heater installation, replacement and thermostat upgrades in Edmonton, with proper sizing, circuits and safe placement.

Where baseboards make sense

Baseboard heaters are simple: no ducts, no moving parts and individual control in every room. They are a common choice for finished basements where the furnace cannot keep up, additions and garage conversions, cabins, and older homes built with electric heat.

Each room becomes its own zone with its own thermostat. Close the door to a spare room and turn it down, and you stop paying to heat it. In a basement suite, separate zones let each occupant set their own comfort.

  • Basement developments and secondary suites
  • Additions, sunrooms and garage conversions
  • Cabins and seasonal properties
  • Rooms that are always cold on a forced-air system
  • Replacing failed heaters in electrically heated homes

They also make sense when a forced-air system is being replaced and some rooms are hard to duct, such as a finished attic or a converted garage. Baseboards fill those gaps without new ductwork.

Sizing and placement

Heat output is chosen room by room, based on size, windows, exterior walls and insulation. A basement bedroom with a big window loses much more heat on a -30 C night than an interior room. Undersized heaters run constantly and still leave you cold; oversized ones cycle and waste money on equipment.

Heaters work best under windows and along exterior walls, where they counter cold downdrafts. Thermostats go on inside walls, away from drafts, sunlight and the heater itself, so they read the actual room temperature.

FIG 01Alberta Electrical
Room outline with orange heaters under a window and on an exterior wall, a yellow thermostat on an interior wall, and a bed in the middle labelled keep clear.Room layout for baseboard heatwindowheater under windowsecond heater, exterior wallthermostaton inside walldoorbed / sofakeep clearto panel
Floor plan of a room with baseboard heaters under the window and along an exterior wall, a thermostat on an inside wall, and furniture kept clear.

We also check the existing heaters in older electrically heated homes. Heaters from decades ago may have worn thermostats, loose connections or damaged elements, and replacing a few problem units is often more effective than adding more.

Thermostats that save energy

Old dial thermostats often swing several degrees, so rooms feel too hot then too cold. Modern electronic line-voltage thermostats hold temperature much more precisely. Programmable and smart models lower the temperature at night or while you are away, which can noticeably cut heating costs.

FIG 02Alberta Electrical
Left: a thermostat carrying 240 volts directly to a heater; right: a thermostat with thin control wire to a relay that switches the heater.Line-voltage vs low-voltage thermostatsLINE-VOLTAGELOW-VOLTAGE + RELAYheater240 Vthrough thethermostatrelayheaterthin controlwire, smartstat optionsSimple, robustBetter comfort and scheduling
Comparison of a line-voltage thermostat switching full heater current and a low-voltage thermostat controlling a relay.

We can replace thermostats on their own, without touching the heaters, as long as the new thermostat is rated for the heater load on that circuit.

Smart thermostats for baseboards must be designed for line voltage. Many popular smart thermostats are low-voltage only and will not work, or will be damaged, if connected directly to a heater circuit.

Circuits and capacity

Baseboards run on 240 V circuits, and a whole floor of them adds up to a large load. Before a basement is converted, we do a load calculation to make sure the service can carry it with everything else in the house. Circuits are sized for the total heater load, and each heater gets a proper connection, not a shared tap through a damaged junction.

SafetyKeep heaters clear

Leave space around baseboard heaters. Furniture, drapes, bedding and boxes too close to a heater are a common cause of winter fires. Never paint over or cover a heater, and replace any heater with damaged fins or a scorched cover.

TipBefore you call

If one heater is cold, check its thermostat setting and whether its breaker has tripped. A breaker that trips again after one reset needs an electrician.

What drives cost

We do not post prices. Cost depends on the number of heaters and thermostats, whether walls are open (new construction or a renovation) or finished, the distance to the panel, available panel space and capacity, and the thermostat type. Replacing a heater on an existing circuit is a much smaller job than adding heat to a whole basement.

If you are developing a basement, plan the heat with the rest of the electrical layout. Our basement renovation service covers lighting, receptacles, smoke alarms and heat together under one permit.

Questions we hear

Are baseboards expensive to run?

They are efficient at turning electricity into heat, but electricity can cost more than gas for heating. Good thermostats and zoning help. A heat pump is often cheaper to run for whole-house heat.

Can I replace a thermostat myself?

Line-voltage thermostats carry 240 V and can cause serious shock or fire if wired wrong. We recommend a licensed electrician.

Why does my heater smell when it first turns on?

Usually dust burning off after summer. A persistent burning smell, scorching or buzzing needs a call.

Can you add heat to my basement suite?

Yes. We size it, check the panel and handle the permit as part of the suite work.

How this job runs

What to expect

  1. Assess

    We look at the rooms, existing heat and the panel, and talk about how you use the space.

  2. Size and plan

    Heater sizes, locations, thermostats and circuits are planned, and a permit is arranged.

  3. Install

    Circuits, heaters and thermostats are installed and connected.

  4. Test

    Each zone is tested, thermostats are set up, and the work is inspected.

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