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Under-cabinet lighting: options, placement and wiring

How to choose between pucks, LED bars and LED tape for under-cabinet lighting, where to place them for shadow-free counters, and how hardwired systems are powered and switched.

6 min readFor homeowners3 illustrations

Why under-cabinet lighting matters

Ceiling lights sit behind you when you stand at a counter, so your head and shoulders throw a shadow right where you are chopping. Under-cabinet lights put light directly on the work surface, from in front of you.

They also make a kitchen look finished. A soft wash on the backsplash at night is often all the light you need for a glass of water, and it shows off tile or stone. Plan them with the rest of the kitchen lighting, including pot light layout.

Your options

TypeLookBest forWatch for
Puck lightsRound pools of lightAccent, glass cabinetsUneven scallops on the counter
Linear LED barsEven line of lightMost kitchens, simple installsChoose lengths to fit each cabinet
LED tape in a channelContinuous, very evenCustom kitchens, long runsNeeds a driver and careful planning

For most kitchens, linear bars or tape in an aluminium channel give the best result. Bare LED tape stuck straight to the cabinet is cheap but shows individual dots, especially on polished counters.

FIG 01Alberta Electrical
Two cross-sections under a cabinet. On the left, bare LED tape with exposed orange diodes throws separate beams. On the right, tape on an aluminium channel behind an orange frosted diffuser gives a single smooth beam.LED tape: bare vs in a channelBare tapedots reflect in glossy counterAluminium channeltape on heat sinkfrosted diffusersmooth, even line of light
Bare LED tape shows bright dots that reflect in a glossy counter, while tape in an aluminium channel with a frosted diffuser gives an even line of light.

Where to put the lights

Mount the lights toward the front of the cabinet, just behind the face frame or light rail. From there the light spreads across the full depth of the counter. Lights mounted at the back create a hot strip on the backsplash and leave the front of the counter dimmer.

FIG 02Alberta Electrical
Section through a wall, upper cabinet, backsplash and counter. An orange light strip near the front of the cabinet throws a wide dashed beam over the counter. A dashed outline at the back marks the poorer location.Section through an upper cabinet and counterUPPER CABINETbase cabinetLight near the front edgespreads across the counterLight at the back:hot spot on backsplash,more glare off glossy topsTypical: 450 mm (18 in) betweencounter and cabinet. Check yours.
In a section through an upper cabinet, a light near the front edge spreads across the counter, while a light at the back makes a hot spot on the backsplash.
  • Add a light rail or valance on the cabinet front so you do not see the strip when seated.
  • Run the light across each cabinet as fully as possible to avoid dark gaps.
  • Think about glossy counters. Quartz and polished granite act like mirrors, so diffused fixtures matter more.

Power, switching and drivers

Plug-in kits are fine for a quick upgrade, but they leave cords and a plug on the backsplash. A hardwired system is cleaner. It is fed from a switched circuit, often with a dedicated wall switch or dimmer beside the other kitchen controls.

FIG 03Alberta Electrical
Elevation of a row of upper cabinets with a range hood. Orange LED strips sit under each cabinet. A dashed line runs from a wall switch to a driver inside the end cabinet, and solid jumpers connect the strips.Elevation: hardwired under-cabinet runcounterhooddriverAccessible, inside a cabinetswitchlow-voltage jumperbehind valanceDashed: 120 V switched feed. Solid: low-voltage leads. Orange: LED strips.
A hardwired run: a switched 120 V feed goes to a driver inside a cabinet, which feeds low-voltage LED strips under each cabinet through jumpers hidden behind the valance.
  • Most LED tape and many bars run on low voltage from a driver. The driver must stay accessible, for example inside a cabinet, not sealed behind drywall.
  • Choose dimmable drivers and a matching dimmer. Our dimmer compatibility guide explains why.
  • Plan cable routes before cabinets go in. Drilling through finished cabinets is slow and risky.
SafetyThe 120 V side is an electrician's job

Adding a new switch, feeding a driver and making connections in the wall involve line-voltage wiring. A licensed electrician should do this, and new wiring usually needs a permit.

Beyond the kitchen

The same products work well in other places where you need light on a surface or a soft glow at night.

  • Bathroom vanities, with a strip under a floating vanity as a gentle night light.
  • Toe-kick lighting along kitchen islands and stairs, on a sensor or low dimmer setting.
  • Garage and workshop benches, where a strip under the shelf puts light right on the work. See our garage and workshop wiring service.
  • Display shelving, bookcases and bar areas, where a warm, high-CRI strip shows off what is on display.

In bathrooms and other damp areas, the fixtures and drivers must be rated for that location.

Colour, timing and cost

Match the colour temperature of your under-cabinet lights to the pot lights and pendants in the kitchen, often 3000K. A high CRI, 90 or more, makes food, wood and stone look natural. See colour temperature and CRI.

The best time to plan under-cabinet lighting is during a kitchen renovation, when walls are open and the cabinet installer can leave space and holes for wiring. Adding it later is possible but takes more care.

Cost depends on the length of cabinet runs, the product type, whether a new switch and circuit are needed, how the wiring gets from the switch to the cabinets, and whether walls are open or finished.

Common questions

Should under-cabinet lights go at the front or the back?

Toward the front, just behind the face frame or light rail. That spreads light across the whole counter and avoids a hot spot on the backsplash.

Can I install plug-in under-cabinet lights myself?

Plug-in kits designed for homeowners can be used as directed. Hardwired systems, new switches and anything connected to a 120 V circuit should be done by a licensed electrician.

Why do I see dots of light on my counter?

Bare LED tape or puck lights reflect as individual points on glossy surfaces. An aluminium channel with a frosted diffuser, or a bar fixture with a diffuser, gives a smooth line instead.

Where does the driver go?

Somewhere accessible and ventilated, often inside an upper cabinet or above it, as the product instructions require. It should never be buried in a wall where it cannot be serviced.

About this guideGeneral information, not a site assessment

Codes and permit rules change and every building is different. For work on your system, talk to a licensed electrician and your local permit authority.

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